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Russ Babbitt's club demo - June 17, 2006 - text
by Al Geller
Surface Enhancement
Russ’s demo & talk on surface enhancement was extremely well
prepared and organized. He demonstrated all types of enhancements including
dyeing, inlaying, carving, piercing, burning, and surface texturing.
Russ briefly discussed that he plans out his projects
thoroughly by mentally constructing them, watching videos, and practicing a
technique on a sample. He also refers to books and articles for additional tips
and ideas. He distributed a resource list for tools, materials and videos. Many
of the videos are in the club’s library and available for loan to members.
Inlaying: One can inlay all types of items in
turnings. Russ demonstrated incising 2 grooves in a disk with a parting tool
(approximately 1/8” deep) and filling one with colored epoxy and another with
brass key fillings (from a locksmith’s shop) set with thin CA glue. After
curing, he cut off the excess material with a skew to reveal color full lines.
He “re-ground” the brass filings in a coffee grinder to get the grit finer and
to create an inlay which is more uniform. The epoxy was very easy to remove.
Applying designs on to turnings: Russ showed us how
to transfer any type of laser printer or Xerox copy on to wood. Do not try
this with ink jet copies. Place the image face down against the wood. To
transfer the image use a “Chart-Pak Blender Pen” or Q-tip soaked in xylene to
release the toner. Remember the image transfers as a “reverse” image with this
process.
Dyeing: Russ had some examples of pieces he had
colored with dye. He put a curly maple partially turned platter on the lathe.
The rim was finished turned and sanded. He applied rubbing alcohol to the
surface to raise the rain and to allow the dye to penetrate deeper into the
surface. The dye was applied with paper towels; allowed to dry and re-sanded. He
would add the same or another color for more depth and intensity. He did this
several times and then finished the surface with Deft spray lacquer. Use aniline
dyes with alcohol for faster drying time. Where the dye penetrates the grain and
goes out to a rim or edge, he uses a black felt marker to create a thin line to
cover this “bleeding”.
Wood Burning – Pyrography: Russ uses the Detail
Master/Sabre IV. The hand pieces he used have fixed tips (not interchangeable)
which heat up immediately and the heat setting can be accurately controlled.
Experiment with scrap wood pieces to obtain the proper heat settings.
Russ burned in several designs showing how to get a clean
edge by using the #6A (bent wire) tip and then burning the interior of the
design. He also showed an adaptable tip with 2 screw parts which hold the wire
and you can bend it to create your own design which could be burnt into the
wood. A ball tip burner can be used for fine detail work or for signing your
work. If scorching occurs, sand it off carefully with fine sand paper.
Russ also demonstrated using a butane “pencil tip” torch to
blacken the wood. For sharp edges, cover the unburned wood with cardboard or
thin metal sheets. Use a fan to blow away the smoke.
Carving – Piercing – Texturing: Piercing is done
with a dental type air turbine operating at 350,000-400,000 rpm. Their 1/16”
shank bits are good for piercing and very light texturing since they have very
little torque resistance. Use used dental burrs (obtained free from your
friendly dentist). For safety, hold the hand piece like a pencil and rest your
fingers for stability against the work piece. If you are plunge cutting grasp
the hand piece with your thumb in a forward position to act as a stop reference
to get a consistent depth.
Carving is done on low speed machines such as Foredom,
Dremel, Wecheer, or enclosed pencil dye grinders with flexible shafts running at
16,000 to 35,000 rpm and 1/8” to ¼” shank burrs. The burrs are high speed steel
or carbide available in a multitude of shapes and sizes. Use a firm grip on the
hand piece as the burr may catch or skate on the wood. You can obtain a
reciprocating (in and out motion instead or rotary) handpiece for these tools
and carve with chisel type bits. Russ chucked a rounded nail in the
reciprocating handpiece and textured a wood surface.
Russ demonstrated the Dennis Stewart chatter tool with end
grain hard maple. He used the tool by drawing the tip across the wood starting
at the center axis and ending at the rim along a “7:30” angle. He showed the
effects of the chatter tool by highlighting them with marking pens. With the
pens he uses light colors first, does the chanter work and then uses dark color
accents.
If you missed his demonstration, check out the video and
learn a lot from the master. Photos are below.
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Russ with a wide array of surface decorarting options |
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Several examples of Russ's work |
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Parting tool to creat space for inlay: UR - back cabachon stone with powdered artists color in epoxy ; LR- Black Palm inlay |
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Adding powdered brass-key filings into groove. Other grooves have colored epoxy or powdered material and CA glueor epoxy |
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Using a skew chisel to remove the excess material |
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Close up of skew on the brass filings |
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Using a bowl gouge as a pull scraper to clean surface |
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The finished surface - lots to choose from |
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Using Chart-Pak blender pen to transfer a pattern image to the wood |
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Showing proper way to hold a pyrography pen for maximum stabilty |
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Using a ball tipped burning pen to sign with. The ball minimizes the grain distortion that occurs with a pointed tip. |
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Demonstrating pyrography technique |
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Sample board showing effects of burning, pin point mini torch and slower speed drill burr texturing |
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Holding two hollow form vessels with carving at rim |
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Hand held reciprocating carving machine in use |
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The carved collars at the small opening add to the appeal of these vessels |
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Close up view of carved portion |
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Curly maple platter with yellow analine dye in alcohol dries quickly |
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A light fine sanding removes raised grain |
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A second layer of red dye is applied |
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Light sanding shows the blending of the two colors for greater visual depth |
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The Sorby texturing tool has been used just inside the colored area |
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Close up view prior to using a fine gouge to remove the excess colored wood and add a demarcating detail
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Close up after the texturing and recutting |
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Chatter tool and colored pens make interesting pattern on the end grain of hard maple. This can then be turned into a top or used as a box lid. |
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