Lyle talked about leveling the lathe with adjustable feet and not turning "outboard" as it tends to overstress the capacity of the lathe and doesn't allow for the use of the tail stock. Note the magnolia tree crotch in front of the lathe.

Discussing making optimal use of grain orientation in various log sections. Turning a smaller bowl may give a better result than trying to make the biggest one possible.

Lyle says the chainsaw is safer than a bandsaw for cutting wet wood logs. Here he is trimming the crotch to the size he wants for the approximate diameter of the bowl and the capacity of the 16" lathe swing.

In these two views he has marked the center pith and the line he will use in splitting the crotch into two halves, each of wich would make a bowl.

Splitting the log crotch halfway then turning it and completing the cut. Normally he would hold the log in a waist-high sawhorse clamping device.

The half crotch ready to mount between centers, but first the bark needs to be removed.

Using the chainsaw to remove the bark.

The inside of the crotch showing the grain.

Lyle doesn't like scroll chucks and uses a face plate to mount all of his work. He turns a slightly concave surface on the work piece so it will sit securely when glued on the faceplate block with medium CA glue.

The crotch mounted between centers in prepartion for shaping the outside of the bowl and the base to be glued to the faceplate block.

Turning the outside of the bowl.

Basic outside shape formed. He will leave the bark on if it appears firmly attached (or add CA glue) but doesn't hesitate to remove the bark if it is loose.

Refining the outside shape.

Preparing the foot to mount to the face plate.

Mounting the bowl to the faceplate block with CA glue. A small hole left in the block allows him to use a thin wire to align the block on the center of the bowl blank.

Beginning to turn the inside of the bowl.

Two views of beginning the cuts inside of the bowl. Since it has a natural edge he is cutting mostly air at the start.

Resharpening his bowl gouge.

Profile of the bowl gouge for inside of the bowl.

Making "step" cuts inside the bowl. By leaving the center steps to support the outer thin edges vibration is reduced. After the outer edge is finished then proceed to the next interior step.

The diagram on the left illustrates the position for starting a cut at the rim of the bowl. On the right he shows the importance of riding the bevel all the way to the center of the bowl.

Showing the step cuts and the inset shows him measuring the thickness.

Notice the angel of approach at the outsied rim; the riding the bevel on the previous step; then cutting into the next layer.

Showing hollowing out the center of the bowl and completing the bottom.

Gently removing the bowl from the glue block with a chisel and mallet.

Bowl remounted between centers to remove the glue base and finish the foot.

Several views of the pull cut with a "spindle" gouge to remove wood from the base.

Giving the foot a slight concave shape to support the bowl. The inset shows the shape of the "spindle" gouge used in this step.

Three views of the finished rough-turned bowl.