The presentation by David Springett stimulated the curiosity of a number of attendees. The simplicity of his woodturning methodology, combined with lively and fast moving presentation techniques, made the day move fast, very captivating, and thought provoking. I think we’ll see work from the membership show up at future show-and-tell sessions.
Prior to Springett’s session, we announced AAW granted our club $1,000 to be used toward the purchase of lathe for the Cabrillo Middle School shop. Folks like Al Geller and Eileen Rinde deserve all of the credit for their efforts to secure the grant. Now we must make good in our commitment to purchase a quality lathe for the advanced students to use while doing school projects, and to have available for future guest demonstrators who visit our Club.
We estimate a lathe and its ancillary equipment could cost $3,500-$4,000, the Club’s treasury can only afford to add an additional $1,500 to the AAW grant, so we need to figure out a way to come up with and an additional $1,000-$1,500.
As I write this message, some of the members in the “Lathe Committee” are searching the internet to locate a lathe. The objective is to find a reasonably priced lathe with a 20-inch swing, variable (electronic) speed control, and that will accept commonly available accessories. If anyone has a lathe or knows of someone who has such a machine and might be willing to part with it, please contact Al Geller or Sam Turner.
While thinking about ideas to raise the additional $1,000-$1,500 needed, a number of ideas have surfaced, they range from sale of members’ art work, to a request for cash donations from the membership. It occurs to me that if we ask each member attending the Summer Party (Sat. July 16) for a minimum donation of $25.00, the Club will come close to raising the needed amount. The donation will be voluntary and anonymous, so bring whatever you can afford.
If you have any other ideas, objections or suggestions, please bring them up at our next meeting June 18, 9:00AM at Cabrillo. Newer members are especially encouraged to bring their work for the Show-and-Tell, and to actively participate in the meeting
For photos of the May meeting including the David Springett demo, see below.
|Mentors AvailableThe following list of members have offered to act as mentors to any member of the club who wishes to have hands-on instruction. This can be done at the mentor’s shop or at the member’s home on their own lathe. It is an excellent way for beginning turners to quickly learn basic skills and safety and for more advanced turners to develop new ideas and skills. Using your member roster, give any mentor a call to arrange a time. If you don’t have your roster or want to add your name to the mentor list, give the newsletter editor a call.Each mentor can teach basic skills; some have also listed specific topics in which they are especially interested or have more advanced skills.Bruce Berger Any topic including segmented turning
Warren Brown Any topic
David Frank Any topic
Al Geller Open form bowls, natural edge bowls, bowl design
Ron Lindsay Any topic including hollow turning freehand
Jim Rinde Anything to do with using and turning resins, turning goblets, hollow turning with a boring bar with/without a laser
Herm Ross Miniatures; tool making and metal work
Chuck Stevenson Basic turning; he is learning to do segmental work
Gary Toro Anything you want to make
Sam Turner Any topic (if he doesn’t know how, he will learn it with you)
|Turning(s) of the MonthThe featured turning this month is the segmented “Bowl from a Board” that Bruce Berger brought to the April 2011 meeting. The process is described in Malcolm Tibbett’s book.▲▲▲||Questions and Answers (Q&A)This is a regular feature of the monthly Newsletter. Send your questions to the newsletter editor, Ron Lindsay,[email protected] . He will forward each question to our panel of experts. We will get answers to each question from at least two of our experts and publish them in a future newsletter in this Q&A section.Question: What kind of finish can be applied over a bowl that has been coated with boiled linseed oil? (John Knittle)
A (Steve LeBlanc): I would use Tung Oil over your boiled linseed oil finish, either pure Tung Oil which seems like it takes forever to dry or a modified Tung Oil (my preference) with added hardeners and or drying agents. Along the modified type, I like Formby’s which behaves like a varnish and can be wiped on or brushed and allowed to dry as brushed. It is available at most hardware stores.
A (Jim Rinde): I have not done this, but I would coat it with a wipe-on polyurethane.
A (Ron Lindsay): Why not continue with a linseed oil finish?